Piet's Remedy for a Soft Floor
Photo shows discoloration of vinyl suggesting floor damage

Piet and Marilyn de Zeeuw experienced the "soft floor" problem in their 1999 Aliner LX.   The problem was discovered after the last Aliner rally where they saw several members that had displays setup showing floor discoloration and deterioration.  

Piet investigated and found several soft spots in his own unit and developed a unique solution to the problem using a product called PC Petrifier Wood Hardener that is a non-toxic brush on, pour on product, used to repair boats with wood rot problems.   It was purchased from Protective Coating Co., Allentown, Pa, 18102, Phone 1-800-220-2103.   Website address is www.pcepoxy.com .   Cost of the 2 gallon used was $90.  On the container it states: "P.C. Petrifier is a single component adhesive, formulated to fully penetrate and revitalize rotted wood. It is environmentally friendly. It penetrates deep into soft rotted wood fibers, restoring old wood to near original structural intregity. Pour, brush, or spray over area to be treated.  Allow for overnight cure."  Following is Piet's description of the repairs with photos.


I removed the cushion floor under our couch/bed with a knife around all the edges. It was severely wet underneath and more severe than the floor material showed. This made me remove the rest of the living space area, at the front of the trailer it was wet underneath, and I removed the frig. all black, soft and wet underneath. The frig was too large for the door, so I parked it on the sink/stove cabinet. Next step: Mineral spirits, rags and choregirl to remove the glue, the flooring was stuck in only 3 places. We then used a 30" fan laying flat on the back couch, blowing down, to dry the wet area's. Next was a belt sander to make sure that there was no glue residue left.

No cabinets were removed,  but I have removed the screws, and carefully pried the cabinets up slightly. I lifted the flooring under the cabinets and pressed it back down as there was no damage. When the floor appeared dry, I drilled 1/8" holes at a 45 degree angle around the outside edges, to get under the walls. 1/4" deep. For the rest of the floor, wet areas only, I drilled 1/4" holes, also 1/4" deep, 2" apart, then saturated the floor with PC-Petrifier Wood Hardener, using a brush to spread it. Keep adding hardener to the floor before it dries. It follows the grain in the wood and soaks in until saturated. The good area's received only 2 coatings, I am very pleased with the result. It looks like a clear plastic coating, and I cannot depress the previous bad areas. It is a water based resin, no smell, no mixing, at
 www.pcepoxy.com . They have additional products for badly rotted missing areas, and you could rebuild a beam with a product called PC-ROT TERMINATOR.

 I used 2 gallons of PC-Petrifier Wood Hardener.  Our nearest store carried 8 and 16oz.  REMOVE YOUR JACKS before starting, I did not and I should have. I am adding 1/4" Plywood at the jack area under the floor, then drilling the hole location, before adding the same plywood above the jacks for reinforcement.

We finished the living area with 12"X12" tiles, nothing under the frig. and under the couch/bed area, this way I can keep an eye on it. I had siliconed the part where the siding is stapled to the floor, removed this, as it was not holding. Now I am using construction grade glue on the seam, then 1X3 strips, screws, glue on the sides, it is tough and waterproof and then undercoating is applied. It is not a real hard job. My trailer is slightly  heavier than before but I am happy with it.
 

(Click on each Photo to see enlarged version)

This photo shows what your floor will look like when there is water damage underneath the vinyl.   Note discoloration.

 

Problem discovered - Floor discoloration
 

Similar damage found under the couch.  This is where I cut the floor covering.  The floor material seems to have a paper backing, and was only glued down in a few places.   Note the wood slats I added to support couch when changed into a bed.  The black marks show where he hinges now rest. Problem also under the couch
 
I drilled holes into the rotted areas, 1/4 inch deep, and then added the Wood Petrifier, brushing it all over until it would not saturate any furthur. Drilling into rotted areas and covering with Wood Petrifier
 
At the front of the trailer, next to the refrigerator, more water damage found. Damage also next to the Refrigerator
 
This shows the extent of the damage with the refrigerator removed.   This whole area was drilled and saturated with the Wood Petrifier. Damage visible after Refrig removed
 
Outside looking in at the refrigerator area. Water may have entered through the vent hole in the floor, or through the outside bottom vent for he frig.  While the frig was removed, I added  additional cooling fans, so now there are 3.  They cycle on and off rather than running continuously when the weather  is warm. View Refrig area from outside looking in
 
This photo shows no further saturation of the Wood Petrifier and it is in the drying stage.   It dries within 24 hours. No furthur saturation of Petrifier
 
Bottom view.   Extra support bars added to support the storage rack at the rear. It is NOT supported by the bumper.  It also shows the added 3" strip added  and bolted thru the floor and fastened above with new bolts and washers adding to the 1/4" plywood glued to the floor above.  I added 1/4" plywood top and bottom and reinstalled the jacks also. Added support underneath
 
This is the final view rear to front.  Wide steel bars support the storage rack at rear.   The floor is totally covered with glue, very hard to nail thru. Bottom view rear to front
 
Total Project Cost

2 gallon PC-Wood Petrifier was $80
Additional glue, undercoating, plywood, screws and bolts $40
New tile floor  $30

Questions, email Piet de Zeeuw
 

 


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